The difference between water-resistant and waterproof makeup
Unlike waterproof makeup, which is meant to withstand water and not break down or move, water-resistant makeup can resist the penetration of water up to a point, but will eventually break down. “When wearing waterproof makeup, you could be slapped in the face by ocean waves without worrying about your makeup moving,” explains Natalia Thomas, a celebrity makeup artist based in New York City. “If you’re sitting poolside and might incur a splash or two, but don’t plan on taking a dip, water-resistant makeup should do just fine.” Although water-resistant and waterproof are terms used pretty interchangeably with makeup, the term water-resistant started being used more frequently after the FDA said in 2011 that the terms waterproof and sweatproof could no longer be used for sunscreens. “They thought the term implied an absolute, that a product could never wash off, and might make consumers less likely to reapply as often as they should, so they came up with water-resistance instead,” explains Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist based in Cincinnati, Ohio. When it comes down to the actual science of waterproof vs. water-resistant makeup, Dobos explains that there are two main approaches. “First, the use of polymers to create very water-resistant films and the type of polymer can vary greatly depending on the application, because we might be much more forgiving of a polymer with less flexible film in mascara compared to something we might use in a foundation,” she says. Another approach is the use of specialized surface-treated pigments. “The pigment particles are coated with ingredients that make them hydrophobic (repel water) and also help them adhere better to the skin, making them more resistant to mechanical friction so they don’t rub off easily on clothes,” says Dobos. “Trimethylsiloxysilicate is one of the most effective surface treatments for both water and oil resistance.”
So what exactly is sweatproof makeup, then?
Sweatproof and waterproof can be approached with similar formulation techniques because sweat is about 99 percent water, according to Dobos. “The test methods can vary, like immersing skin in a whirlpool for water resistance or using a sauna for sweatproof claims,” she says. “Sebum resistance is another aspect of formulating, especially for foundation or other face makeups, as oil ‘breakthrough’ can occur during the day and can actually cause darkening of the pigments and powders causing the color to shift. Here we have to utilize ingredients that are not just hydrophobic, but oleophobic (oil-resistant).” So when you see a sweatproof product, you can assume that it’s waterproof, too.
Best tips for removing waterproof and water-resistant makeup
While waterproof and water-resistant makeup are notoriously difficult to take off, the key is to invest in cleansers and makeup removers that are specifically formulated to help quickly loosen and dissolve long-wear makeup. Makeup removers that are oil-based are your best bet for breaking down waterproof formulas. “Dual-phase formulations and emollient-based balms are especially useful in the delicate eye area, where you want to avoid rubbing or pulling the skin,” says Dobos.
Best waterproof makeup products
If you’re looking for some truly waterproof makeup, shop the ones that makeup artists recommend below.
